Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Rare earth magnets

Rare earth magnets 2!

Review date: 20 January 2004.
Last modified 03-Dec-2011.

Twenty years ago, neodymium-iron-boron (NIB) magnets were very exotic technology indeed. They didn't hit the retail market at all until the end of 1984, and then they were seriously expensive for some time.
That was then, this is now. NIB magnets are all over the place now, in everything from electric motors to construction toys large and
Today, you can get "surplus" NIB magnets from umpteen dealers at prices from well under one US dollar each (for button-sized ones) to $US10 or $US20 for magnets big enough to hurt you badly.
The cheapest NIBs out there are likely to be have a low "grade" number - probably something like "N35", versus the higher-than-N40 grade of more expensive magnets.
The grade of a NIB magnet doesn't actually matter much, though. Higher grade magnets can be magnetised more strongly (and probably have been) and are more difficult for another magnetic field to demagnetise. But you can't demagnetise a NIB magnet with anything less than a seriously powerful electromagnet anyway, and the actual strength difference between old-and-busted N30 grade and new-hotness N48 grade, assuming both are magnetised to their maximum strength, is in the vicinity of 25%. The difference between the commonly seen N38 and the less commonly seen N42 is little more than 5%.
So the problem with cheap surplus magnets isn't strength. It's just that they're a bit boring.
Every basic NIB magnet dealer seems to sell the same stuff. Blocks, cylinders, disks and rings, plus odd-shaped magnets scavenged from voice coil hard drives. Old curved voice coil magnets are great for generators and motors, but the regular flat-square-banana type aren't terribly exciting, and that and basic geometric primitives is all you get.
M'verygoodfriends at , for instance, stock other magnets as well as NIBs and various interesting stuff besides, but their NIB magnet range is pretty geometrically basic.
, on the other hand, have the regular shapes, plus all kinds of other weird stuff. Their Web site ain't much to look at yet, but their stock list, and low prices, make up for it. They kindly sent me a selection of their wares.
See what I'm talking about?
The ruler has metric on its top edge and inches on the bottom. This one inch tall, one inch diameter cone magnet costs $US15 (not bad for an N40-grade magnet this big, but shipping's expensive because of the extra packaging needed for the weird shape).
The cone's magnetised top-to-bottom, so you can stick together a matched pair that's magnetised in opposite directions tail to tail. You can also easily damage the magnet if you allow its pointy pole to slam into something; the standard bright nickel plating over the black NIB ceramic isn't tremendously durable, and the shape of the magnet focuses its field at the point in an invitation to damage.
The cone does, however, let you do some things that other magnets can't.
Like this, for instance.
Align a ring magnet (a 3/4 inch wide, 1/4 inch thick, 3/8th inch internal diameter ring magnet in N45-grade, in this case; $US6 for four, or half as much for a lower grade version) so that it repels the tip of the cone, then push it down. It'll resist until it passes the tip and then click into place, like this. This feels much the same as forcing a ring magnet onto a rod magnet, but the cone-and-ring combo lets you do a trick.
Push the ring back up with your thumb while holding the cone, and the ring will shoot into the air when it moves back into the net-repulsion zone.
I tried this trick, and it worked perfectly. The ring shot off, bounced off the low ceiling, fell into a pile of random junk and activated a Level Six Cloaking Field. It took half an hour of tidying before I found it again.
For general playing-with-magnets purposes, these discs are a bad choice. They're listed on the Engineered Concepts disc magnets page along with various more normally proportioned models. The 1mm thick, 10mm diameter ones aren't terribly fragile, but there are also 10 and 15mm diameter, 0.5mm thickness discs, which are easy to snap.
If you want a very low profile magnet to stick to some other object, though, these discs are great. They've got plenty of holding power, but you could conceal one in a piece of cardboard. Magicians, ahoy!
On the subject of concealable magnets...
...these suckers, all put together, have maybe half of the volume of a matchstick.
You're looking at 3x1mm and 2x1mm discs, and 1x3mm rods. The sixteen rods, all together, weigh about three-tenths of a gram. One of them still had no trouble lifting a 15.5g nail clipper, though, despite having only a small contact point with the metal.
More tiny magnets, but these ones are high-end N45 grade, and have a specific purpose. They're for, wait for it, people who make their own brushless motors for radio controlled model planes.
Some such motors are built from scratch, but many of them are rebuilt CD-ROM drive motors. You scrap the stock magnets and windings and add your own powerful magnets, chunky wire and brushless speed controller, and presto, you've got a surprisingly powerful motor for a super-lightweight plane.
Back in the land of basic geometry: Three-quarter inch ball magnets, hands, for the merciless pinching of, yours for $US12 for two...
...and little 8mm balls, at two bucks for three.
The big balls have the usual NIB nickel plating, which means they'll wear away their contact points pretty quickly. NIBs have a tendency to wear each other out, and the coatings on many of them aren't very strong.
The little balls are chrome plated, though. Chrome is a lot tougher than nickel, and it makes them much more suitable for making reconfigurable jewellery and other such things - as shown on the Engineered Concepts ball magnet page, and this page too.
Engineered Concepts also sell epoxy coated ball magnets, which should stand up to even rougher treatment. But they're not as pretty.
One 30 by 30 by 4mm square, two half-inch by 2mm squares, none of them terribly expensive.
The peculiar property these magnets have is that you can stick them together north-to-north or south-to-south, after a fashion. One of the small magnets will stick to the big one the wrong way around if you position it in the centre of the big one, rather than in the corners as shown above. And then, as with the cone and ring, nudging the little magnet away from the centre will move it out of the area where the net magnetic flux is reversed, and just like the ring magnet, it'll ping off into an undisclosed location.
Here's something disturbingly prosaic - ceiling hooks.
These hooks are made for use in classrooms and other places that have a suspended ceiling with steel supports, or anywhere else you can find a ferrous plate over your head. You can stick them anywhere else you like, of course, but they won't support much weight if it's not trying to pull them straight off the surface they're stuck to. As wall hooks, they'd be fine for hanging your oven mitts.
A hole in the base of each hook accepts a special installer/remover tool so you don't have to stand on a table to work with the hooks; in the absence of the special tool, a coat-hanger, some tape and a broom handle would do.
The two humble 8mm-wide disc magnets in the base of each hook make it easy to demonstrate how powerful NIBs can be; stuck to a solid piece of steel (the smooth base of a wood file blade), the hooks could hold up to about three kilograms, though they were dodgy enough up around this weight limit that you wouldn't want to bet on more than their 3.5 pound (1.6kg) rated strength. That's about as much as you should hang from a ceiling T-bar anyway.
The strength of the plastic certainly doesn't seem to be limiting the hooks' carrying capacity; they've got that dead-rigid, crunchy fibre-filled polymer feeling. I don't know whether they're actually filled with glass fibre or anything more exotic, because they look as if they might come in handy sometime and so I don't want to saw one in half.
You can get 12 hooks for $US15 (or 60 for $US60 - everything Engineered Concepts sell is cheaper in bulk), and they come packaged in sets of four. The set I got was neatly divided into two with north poles facing out and two with south poles, so they snapped together into two pairs. Which might be useful for something.
A selection of oddities.
Engineered Concepts list their heart, triangle and star shaped magnets on this page; they're all magnetised through their height like practically every plain round or square flat magnet, and thick enough that they're not especially fragile, though the stars could easily lose corners with rough play.
And then, there are the pyramids. Truncated pyramids, actually (or pyramidal frustums, if you want to get technical), and available with in square and triangular versions, magnetised through the height in either direction.
These little N38-grade tackers are cheap - $US15 for ten of the square ones, $US12.50 for ten of the triangular ones - because they're not very big, with bases only 10mm on a side. They illustrate field focussing well, though; the field strength on top of the small end is about 1.2 times the field strength on the bottom.
If you want a more, ah, concrete demonstration...
...this sucker will give it to you. Two inch square base, one inch square top, N45 grade. The top face apparently has a better than 7000 Gauss field on it (I haven't bought or built a gauss meter yet, so I'm taking this on faith). This is approaching the nominal one Tesla (10,000 Gauss) field strength that people quote for NIBs of all types, but which only actually exists inside the magnet. For comparison, your average fridge magnet is likely to manage a few hundred Gauss, at best.
The big pyramid magnets aren't quite on sale at Engineered Concepts yet, though they're mentioned (and stacked!) on the home page.
This two by one inch cylinder magnet's a bit of a ring-in. It didn't come from Engineered Concepts; it came from ForceField, who sell it for $US45.
This is the most monstrous magnet that ForceField sell, but Engineered Concepts have giants of their own, including their biggest ring magnet. And that ain't where it stops. They'll have even larger magnets made to order, if you ask and can demonstrate to them that you have some idea what the heck you're buying.
Large rare earth magnets are useful things, you see. If you need to crush a hand, blind yourself with ceramic fragments or scare the living dung out of a guest, a NIB magnet weighing some single-digit-fraction of a kilogram will get the job done. The five-by-four-by-one-inch giants that top out Engineered Concepts' stock range have to weigh something like two and a half kilos, which makes me glad they're on the other side of the planet from me.
ForceField sent me a pair of the two-by-one inchers. You're not going to see them both in one picture, because I store them separated by several feet and have not yet felt self-destructive enough to bring them together.
If you want magnets to stick things to the fridge or just play with in idle moments, you don't want something this big. One of the big cylinders comfortably stuck a two centimetre thick book to my fridge.
Giant ferrite magnets are a lot safer. If you're careful, you can chip such a magnet off the back of a defunct loudspeaker driver, though they often break when you try. All physically big magnets have a big area around them where they provide a large fraction of their peak magnetic field, and the noticeable field size of a huge ring magnet from the back of a subwoofer is a lot greater than the field from one of these two-inch-diameter NIB cylinders.
Working out the exact strength of a magnetic field at a given point is a bit tricky, but the reason why big NIBs are so much more dangerous than big ferrites is easy enough to grasp. The surface field strength of a big NIB magnet is up there in the same multi-kilogauss range as that of other NIBs, so it pulls really hard when it's close to something it attracts, and can crush you. Also, the larger noticeable-field size of a bigger magnet means it can grab things from further away and throw them at itself faster. The terminal velocity of things headed unexpectedly for a big NIB, or of big NIBs headed unexpectedly for each other, can be alarmingly high. And energy equals 1/2mv^2.
For reference, the big cylinders each weigh about 385 grams (13.6 oz). This is something in the order of 20,000 times as much...
...as one of the super-tiny cylinders.
There are, however, reasons why someone might want a NIB magnet the size of a small fist. You're building a motor or a generator, you're making some other mechanism that needs something stuck to some ferromagnetic other thing with great force, you're fishing for junk in a lake, you're a circus strongman seeking a novel act.
Generally speaking, though, giant NIBs are not a consumer product. If you think you want one, you're probably wrong. If you think you want two, you'd be well advised to store them several feet apart.
Engineered Concepts, on their biggest baddest magnets page, say that some of the very largest slabs are popular among people who believe that magnetic fields have therapeutic benefits. They've also got a "Thoughts on Permanent Magnets and Medicine" page. Regular readers will realise that things like this press my rant button, so here goes.
The Engineered Concepts page mentions a University of Tennessee study that found magnets somewhat more effective than placebo, but which had a tiddly little sample size (only 19 people completed the study; 13 dropped out, possibly because they thought they were wasting their time). The study admits right there in its abstract that it's difficult (I'd go so further, and say impossible) to do a proper double-blind study of magnetic therapy without strapping your patients to beds all day. This is because it's easy for a patient to find out whether they've got the real magnets or the placebo, when the things are strapped to their body all day and they're left unsupervised.
There's a rather more upbeat account of this study on a page that Engineered Concepts link to. I'm sure this has nothing at all to do with the fact that it's on a site that sells therapeutic magnets .
The couple of little NIB magnets that site's selling for at least 20 UK pounds, mind you, would cost you a lot less from Engineered Concepts; all you'd miss out on would be the plastic casing. If you want to experiment with magnet therapy, buy your magnets from a place like Engineered Concepts.
Engineered Concepts list three other medical studies - this one , this one and this one . Only the last study is actually relevant to the effects of permanent magnet field strengths, and it concluded that they didn't do anything unless combined with ionising radiation.
The rest of the results were all from Big-Ass Electromagnets™ saturating a considerable volume with a field at least several times as strong as the very small surface field on the top of the big Engineered Concepts pyramid. None of them had a thing to do with any in vivo effect, particularly pain relief, which is what people usually want from magnetic therapy products.
And then the "Thoughts" page leans on Gary Null .
Ahem . Yes .
You don't have to be cognitively unusual to think that an allegedly-therapeutic magnetic whatchamacallit eases your back pain, or heals a wound faster, or lets you sleep more soundly, or whatever. You'd be abnormal if the placebo effect didn't work on you, and there are plenty of other possible explanations .
And there's no reason to suppose that strapping magnets to yourself (while also doing what evidence-based medicine suggests you do, if anything) will do you any harm. The only way even the strongest magnetic fields we've managed to create will hurt anyone is if they haul a fire extinguisher across the room and brain someone with it.
But this very fact is actually strong evidence that nothing is going on. There's no real medical intervention in the world that won't do harm when applied incorrectly or excessively, but there are lots of bogus treatments that can't hurt you in any way. Because they don't do anything. And if you try to cure serious diseases with magnets instead of proper medicine, you won't be with us for long.
Oh, and it should also be noted that the big medical manufacturing companies (and the by-no-means small alternative-medical manufacturing companies...) all sell lots of stuff that isn't patented , so the fact that magnetic therapy widgets can't be patented doesn't mean nobody's interested.
Once again, though - if you do want to fool around with magnetic therapy, and even make yourself a mattress pad that won't let you get back up if you lie on it with a screwdriver in your pocket, you can do it with Engineered Concepts magnets for a lot less money than some carpetbagging huckster would charge you.

Overall

Whinging about medical magnet flapdoodle aside, I like Engineered Concepts a lot. Nifty magnets, good pricing, and solid packaging too. My review magnets came with the usual mild steel sheet around the inside of the box, but also with plenty of foam packaging and press-seal bags for the tiny magnets. The bulky packaging does push up shipping fees, but there's nothing that can be done about that; under-packaged NIB magnets are likely to nail themselves to some postal sorting machinery or the inside of a delivery truck and never make it to your door.
NIB magnets are both useful and fun, and they're even quite safe for computer geeks to play with, as long as you don't get them really close to a CRT monitor. Hard drives are quite safe from NIB-strength fields, as I've discussed before ( here and here ).
So go and buy some. Now would be a good time.

Review magnets kindly supplied by Engineered Concepts .
Enormous scary cylinder magnets kindly supplied by ForceField .

My original NIB magnet review is here.
Superball
And then, there's this .

Monday, January 11, 2016

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What Are Neodymium Magnets?

Neodymium magnets are a type of rare earth magnet. They are very strong relative to their size. They are often referred to as rare earth magnets because they belong to the rare earth elements on the periodic table. But they are not the same as rare earth magnets. There are different types of rare earth magnets and Neodymium magnets are just one type. Neodymium magnets are the strongest permanent magnets available today.

Neodymium magnets are also known as Neodymium-Iron-Boron or Nd-Fe-B or NIB super magnets since they are composed of these elements. The chemical composition is Nd2Fe14B. These magnets are extremely strong for their small size and are metallic in appearance.

Attributes Of Neodymium Magnets
There are several attributes of Neodymium magnets that differentiate them from other magnets.


Neodymium magnets are very strong permanent magnets. In fact they are the strongest of all rare earth magnets and also the strongest permanent magnets that exist today.
Neodymium magnets have a very high resistance to demagnetization. This makes them very useful in many different kinds of industrial applications.
Even small sized Neodymium magnets have a very high energy. This makes them easily portable from one place to another.
They are good in ambient temperature.
Another major attribute of Neodymium magnets that has added to their popularity is the affordability factor. Neodymium magnets, unlike previous high strength magnets like tiny cobalt-samarium magnets, are priced very low and can be afforded by educators and experimenters on their limited budgets.
Neodymium magnets are very corrosive and hence have to be handled carefully. It is best to coat them for long-term maximum energy output and usage.
Neodymium magnets have a low working temperature for heat applications and can catch fire at high temperatures.
Application Of Neodymium Magnets
Used for stabilization and angular head motors in computer hard drives.
High-end speakers.
Different kind of toys as neocube, neo cube.
More powerful electric motors for model aircraft & radio control models.

NeoCube, BuckyBalls, CyberCube, EuroCube, MagCube new magnets toy

NeoCube sometime call as BuckyBalls, CyberCube, EuroCube, MagCube, QQMag is new toy which is composed from 27 / 64 / 125 / 216 pcs individual neodymium magnets ball. Beginning of the year 2008 was when the game Neo Cube start be very popular on all the world. Main market where is the neocube selling is USA, Russia, EU. Raw material for neo cube are neodymium balls. Neodymium Iron Boron (NIB) magnets are extremely powerful, and allow effects to be seen that aren't possible with normal iron or ferrite magnets.


where to buy
NeoCube you can buy in different retail shop of course for different price, if you looking for some good source check this page you will get correct link to buy it directly from China for very competitive price.


Neocube is good toy with many benefits for kids and adult too. It is new kind of puzzle with more then one solution which have traditional puzzle game. The small cute ball you can mold in your hand, make some wonderful shape, create interesting geometrical designs or just make from them holder for your pen. Always you can recreate and make new object. You can buy different color too as golden, shine black, silver, red, blue, original nickel. Also its a education toys for your kids just in the school, its can help them to develop the mind of the imagination its very important for the students to train the mind with such toys. It's a good gift for your children, also it's can be a good gift for adult too. Relax and enjoy your free time with full of magic.

Monday, December 28, 2015

Cylinder Magnets used in Art Exhibition

Cylinder Magnets used in Art Exhibition
Our customer Jem Magbanua, who is an artist, was kind enough to send us this photo of how she used cylinder neodymium magnets to display her drawing in “The Days That We Wonder” exhibition at Deck Gallery.
Magnets hold up artworks and drawings without damaging the exhibits and doesn’t requires drilling of holes that damages walls and it is a clean alternative that doesn’t leave hard to clean, sticky residues that is common when using double sided tape or foam adhesives.

Magnetic Quick Release on Back Pack

Magnetic Quick Release on Back Pack
Carrying a water bottle on the side pouch of a backpack allows easy access for a quench of thirst without having to remove or put down the backpack. But our customer HC Ong pointed out that his water bottle often got flunk out of his backpack whenever he is in a hurry or during a quick turn that causes the backpack to swerve. It is an annoying problem that can cause a dent on a nice looking aluminium water bottle or causing slight breakage to plastics ones. Worse still, some water bottle were simply lost.
He found the perfect solution by attaching a cord from his backpack to one side of magnetic quick release and attaching the other side of the magnetic quick release to his backpack side pouch.
This allows him to run the cord thru a hole on his water bottle and secure it with the magnetic quick release. This keeps his water bottle in place even when he runs or swing his backpack. To remove water bottle, a quick tug on the cord separates the magnetic quick release. The best part is how easy it is to secure the magnetic clasp single handedly, simply bring one side close (appx 1.5cm) to the other half and it automatically snap in place by the sheer magnetic force!
Try doing that with a typical 2 pronged plastic clip where you have to align and insert one side to the other and push it in, with just 1 hand.

Magnetic Quick Release Secure Water Bottle

Fix Broken Air-conditioner Cover with Magnets


Fix broken air-conditioner cover with magnets.
BrokenAirconCover
I’ve seen it numerous times, missing air-conditioner cover, cover duct taped to to the blower unit, using a twisted wire to hold the cover in place, slanted ill fitting air-conditioner covers (no repair attempted, just hanging there with the remaining hinge)…
These are tell tale signs that the hinge or latch of the covering is broken and most owners results to creative ways of repairs, relatively better than not covering it at all which can affect the air-flow and dust protection of the blower unit.
Below is just an alternative way of repair/modification to add to the list : ), except that:
1) there are no tell tale sign once we’re done
2) it works better than the original cover, you’ll realise it on your next cleaning (but don’t start breaking your cover yet if it’s still under warranty!)
So let’s get started!
Fix broken aircon cover with magnets
What you’ll need:
– The air conditioner cover with broken hinge (go on and break off the remaining plastic hinge since if it’s already broken)
Block neodymium magnets 20 x 10 x 2 mm: 1-2pcs  (if you are not using a scrap metal)
– Super glue
– Double sided adhesive tape
– Good quality adhesive tape
– Small piece of scrape metal (optional, if you are using just 1 magnet)
Step 1. Identify a spot on the air-conditioner blower unit that has contact with the cover or has just a small gap (2-4mm gap is fine) from the cover when fully closed.
Mark the spot on to the cover. (ideally it is a flat smooth area)
Step 2. Stick the scrap metal Or 1pcs of the magnet to the cover using double side adhesive tape (If you are using magnet, take note of the polarity so you will not end up sticking both the same polarity facing each other)
Reinforce by pasting a big generous piece of adhesive tape over the magnet/scrap metal
StickMetalToCover
Step 3 Super glue a piece of block neodymium magnet to the spot on the air-conditioner unit where it will come in contact with the cover when fully closed.
Apply firm pressure on the magnet for 10 seconds for the super glue to bond.
Reinforce it by wrapping some adhesive tape over the magnet, I’ve added 2 layers of clear adhesive (vertically and horizontally) for good measure. Apply pressure and give the adhesive tape a good rub to secure it in place. If you are not in a hurry, wait for a few hours for the super glue and adhesive tape to set and have a good grip because we want this to be really secure.
Stick Magnet To Aircon
This photo highlight in red the single block magnet positioned on the top-middle section of the air-conditioner.
The 2 blue circles shows original holes for existing latches which requires no modification.
Magnet on Aircon
Step 4. Align the magnets/scrap metal piece and fix the cover back to the air-conditioner blower unit, it should click when in contact. (Shown in red circle below)
Finally, press in the latchs to secure the cover and we are done!  (Shown in blue circles below)
Fix Aircon cover with magnets

The following photo taken from way up the ceiling shows the gap between the cover and blower unit.
The neodymium magnet holding on to the cover scrap metal can be seen only through the grill above if you climb up and look really hard.
Untitled-14
As a bonus, you can now easily remove the whole cover for washing during cleaning and maintenance without the fear of breaking a plastic hinge!
There are simply no more hinges to break.
Notes:
The reasons why a scrap metal was used in this case is because:
1) Some cover are relatively light weight, not necessary to use 2pcs of neodymium magnets
2) Scap metal which are thin and larger size than the magnet is easier to stick to the cover as it has a larger surface area for more double side adhesive hence better adhesion.
3) No need to align 2 pieces of magnets perfectly as the scrap metal is slightly larger.
But for other cases, you may need the strength of 2pcs of neodymium magnets if the cover is heavy or the gap is wider. Some situations may require a disc shaped neodymium magnets, it really depends.
Happy modifying!

Mounting Magnets - pot countersunk neodymium magnets hooks

Mounting Magnets

Mounting Magnets – What are they?

An MMS-E-X8 stuck to a steel I-beam
Mounting Magnets are strong neodymium magnets that are set inside a steel cup or channel.  Most come in round shapes, but we also offer a few Rectangular Mounting Magnets.

They include countersunk holes or threaded features that allow for mounting with standard hardware (nuts and bolts), as well as various hooks.

They are intended to attract to a steel (or other ferromagnetic) surface.

Why would I want to use a Mounting Magnet instead of a plain disc or ring magnet?

Magnetic field of a disc magnet compared to a Mounting Magnet.  Magnet shown in green.
1. More Magnetic Strength.  A Mounting Magnet offers much more strength than you get with the magnet alone.  If you took the magnet out of a Mounting Magnet, you might only see half the pull force that you had fully assembled.  In terms of dollars spent per pound of pull force, they can be a better value than a plain magnet.

Why is it stronger?  Their construction consists of a disc or ring magnet sitting inside a steel cup.  With a plain disc magnet sticking to a steel surface, the magnetic field looks as shown in the top part of the magnetic field picture at left.  You get a strong attraction where the magnet touches the steel, but the magnetic field on the opposite side of the magnet isn't doing much to provide pull force.

With the steel cup of a mounting magnet, the steel structure redirects the magnetic field from the back-side of the magnet, turning it into more useful holding strength.  A Mounting Magnet gets a lot of its strength by the steel cup attracting to the surface, because the steel cup is magnetized by the magnet.  In the magnetic field picture, the steel cup looks purple on the color scale because the steel is magnetically saturated -- as full of magnetic flux as it can get.

You could say that the Mounting Magnet is stronger because the magnetized steel makes the assembly act like a bigger magnet.  Also, you get a lot of strength by having those poles close to one another, which provides a strong magnetic flux in the steel surface it sticks to.
2. DurabilityNeodymium magnets are made of a hard, brittle material.  If you let them slam into one another or into a steel surface, they can chip or break.

Our Mounting Magnets are constructed so that the surface of the magnet is set very slightly below the surface of the steel cup.  When it hits a steel surface, the steel cup takes the brunt of most impacts.
3. Mounting Options.  Our Mounting Magnets come in a variety of mounting options.  This includes a number of options that include threaded steel features (with male or female threads) that you can attach using standard hardware.

Neodymium magnet material is so hard and brittle that you can’t make usable threads with it.  We've tried in the past, but the threads shear as soon as torque is applied on a screw or bolt.  It is like trying to make usable threads in ceramic.  By providing threads in a steel part, you get a sturdy mounting solution not possible with plain magnets.

Mounting Magnets are available in both metric and standard/American/Unified sizes, millimeters or inches.  Styles include:
  • Countersunk, MM-A and MMS-A
  • Counterbored, MM-B and MMS-B
  • Male threaded stud, MM-C and MMS-C
  • Female threaded stud, MM-D and MMS-D
  • Female threaded stud with steel hook, MM-E and MMS-E
  • Female threaded stud with eye-hook, MMS-G only
  • A low-profile inset thread, MMS-H
There are also a number of Rectangular Mounting Magnets available, with countersunk holes.

How strong are Mounting Magnets?

Each of our Mounting Magnets product pages includes a listed Pull Force number, expressed in pounds.  This is the force required to pull one of these magnets straight away from a steel surface.  Strengths range from just a few pounds, as with the tiny MM-C-10, to several hundred pounds from big 3” diameter magnets like the MMS-A-Z0.
Note: When loading the magnets in a different orientation, expect different results.  Stuck to a vertical surface like a wall, a mounting magnet won’t necessarily hold up a weight that’s equal to the listed pull force number.  In fact, it is usually lower.  How much it will hold depends on the friction between the surfaces, the shape of what is being held up, and a few other factors.  See How Much Will a Magnet Hold?
The magnets with hooks on them are especially worth mentioning in this regard.  When you hang a weight vertically on one of these hooks, the maximum load is less than the listed pull force.  The long hook provides some leverage that makes the magnet easier to pry off when loaded this way.

Fishing for Lost Objects

Mounting Magnets are great for trying to retrieve objects that are lost underwater.  They are often used to fish up magnetic objects lost on the bottoms of lakes and rivers.  If there is a large steel component to the item, it can be possible to lift with these magnets.
Our MMS-G magnets are popular for this, with their eye-hook that's convenient for attaching a rope or cable.  Some of our customers have reported good results using an MMS-C and MMS-D magnet screwed together, with the rope/cable/cord tied on the space between them.  The idea is that this combination might be more likely to catch onto an object below the water’s surface.
At right, the MM-C-48 and MM-D-48 magnets are shown attached to one another, with the rope tied between them.  At far right, a single MMS-G-Y0 hangs from a rope.

What are Mounting Magnets Not Good For?

Magnet-to-Magnet attraction. These magnets are not made for attracting to each other.  In fact, they won’t.  All of our Mounting Magnets are assembled with the north pole of the magnet facing out.  If you try to line them up with one another, they will repel.  They will stick together with an offset, as shown.
We make them this way for consistency and to make them easier to package together.  Sorry, we are not able to offer these magnets with the south pole facing out.
Mounting Magnets are not waterproof.  If used outdoors, consider some means of protecting them from moisture.  Without protection, these magnets can rust over time.  A solution can be as simple as a coat of paint.  Our Plastic Coated Magnets are a good off-the-shelf solution when protection from water is important.
On a scratchable surface.  If used on a painted surface, consider MM-RC rubber covers, which are available for many of our metric mounting magnet sizes.  These covers were featured in our recent article on Vehicle Signs, where we mounted a big sign on the painted roof of a car.
Reaching Across a Distance.  Warning: Technical Content.
The magnet inside a steel cup construction of a Mounting Magnet offers more strength than a single magnet does when sticking to a steel surface.  If there is a significant gap between the Mounting Magnet and the steel surface it sticks to, however, the benefits of the steel cup diminish.
The graph of Pull Force vs. Distance below helps to illustrate the idea.  It compares a 1-1/4" diameter MMS-C-X4 magnet to a number of disc magnets: the 1" diameter DX04, the 1-1/4" DX44 and the 1-1/2" DX88.
At a distance of zero, where the magnet is touching the steel surface, the Mounting Magnet has much more strength than the similarly sized disc magnets, over double their pull force!  If there is a gap of 1/4" or more, however, it isn't much stronger at all.
The graph also compares the Mounting Magnet to a larger, 1-1/2" diameter x 1/2" thick DX88 disc magnet.  This is a bigger magnet that is more expensive than the MMS-C-X4 mounting magnet.  The pull forces when touching a steel surface are very similar, but when there is a large gap, the big disc magnet has the advantage.
You can still use mounting magnets with a small gap between the magnet and the steel surface they are attracting to, but be aware of how the strength will decrease with gaps or a layer of non-magnetic material between the magnet and the steel surface.
Pull Force vs. Distance, where distance is from the magnet to a steel surface

Videos?

While we haven't included any videos of these powerful magnets in action, we do have a few posted online.  You can find them on a few of the individual product pages, hidden under the "Video" tab.  Click to these product pages to find them:
  • MMS-E-X0
  • MMS-E-X4
  • MMS-E-Y0
  • MMS-E-Y8
  • MMS-E-Z0

Be careful – they’re strong!

As always, be careful when handling strong neodymium magnets.  Handle these magnets with care, especially the larger ones.  You don’t want to pinch your finger between magnets that can exert hundreds of pounds of force!

Neodymium Magnets Allications in Vehicle Signs & Ads

Vehicle Signs

The sign slides backwards.
The sign rotates off the roof.
Strong neodymium magnets are often used to attach signs or light-bars to the roof of a car or truck.  What magnets should be used?  What magnets will be strong enough?

Disclaimers

A magnetic attachment to the roof of your vehicle can be a very handy solution.  It makes lights or signs easy to install and remove.  It doesn’t alter the vehicle.  However, it is not nearly as secure as a mechanical clamping or screw-on attachment.  The dangers of having a sign, light-bar or other object detaching from the vehicle while driving are very serious.  Please be mindful of these dangers.
This article describes some of the ways an engineer might think about this problem, and shows some actual testing we conducted.  It is not a specific recommendation for how to do this with your sign, or a recommendation of a particular magnet size as being strong enough for your application.
If in doubt, don’t try this at home.

Really, please be careful!

If you use magnets to hold something to the roof of our vehicle, it could pose a very real danger if it comes loose.  If it flies back into the windshield of the car behind you, serious damage or injury could occur.  Please take these warnings very seriously.  Consider an appropriate factor of safety, over-specifying the strength in your application.

The goal: Stick a sign on the roof of a car with magnets

We’ve heard of many different types of things secured to the roof of a car using magnets.  Examples include light-bars (the flashing lights used by police, fire and ambulance), taxi signs, and artistic works, including two pieces of bread on top of a “toaster car!”
The goal for all of these projects is the same: Choose magnets that are strong enough to hold the sign securely in place during all expected driving conditions.  For the example considered here, we constructed a forward facing sign made of wood, sized 2 feet wide by 1 foot tall.  Since the wind force on any sign is largely a function of the forward facing surface area, this is a fair representative sample.

A magnetic sign fails in one of two ways

We examine two failure modes: Sliding and Rotating.
Sliding occurs when the force of the wind overcomes the friction force between the magnets and the roof.  The sign slides backward along the roof the vehicle.
Rotating occurs when the height of the sign gives the wind force enough leverage to “pry” the sign off the car, usually lifting the front magnets off the surface and sending the sign tumbling.
Because of this rotational failure mode, multiple magnets must be used with the magnets spaced fore and aft of the load/wind direction.  As shown at right, the “BAD” sign fails easily, tipped over by the wind.  The “GOOD” sign fares better, since the magnets have some leverage to fight this rotating tendency.
In practice, failures are often a combination of the two.  As the force tries to rotate the sign, the front magnets are pulled away from the car.  This tends to reduce their friction force contribution.

Gather experimental data for a number of magnets

To design a sign properly, we need some good data on how well these magnets will hold to the top of our car.  Most of our magnets have listed Pull Force values, but these are tested by pulling the magnet straight away from a big, thick, unpainted steel plate.  Performance on the roof of a car will be different because the surface is not thick, is painted, and isn't perfectly flat.
The data below catalogs some experimental data we gathered on the roof of our test-car:
P/N Listed Pull Force (lb) Pull Force, lifting straight up, off the roof of car (lb) Shear Force, pushing magnet sideways/horizontally on roof of car (lb)
MM-E-32 with MM-RC-32 75 6.6 7.4
MM-E-36 with MM-RC-36 90.4 9.4 8.2
MM-E-42 with MM-RC-42 149.9 12 8.2
MM-E-48 with MM-RC-48 178.6 13 8.8
MM-E-60 with MM-RC-60 249.1 18 17
MM-E-75 with MM-RC-75 361.6 25 18

Why are the listed pull force values listed on our product pages so much higher than what we tested on the car?  There are several reasons.  The thickness of the rubber cover reduces magnetic pull force by as much as 75%, since the magnet is farther away from the steel surface.  Also, the thin steel surface of the roof isn’t as thick as the test plate we use for testing, so the force is further reduced.
While experimenting with these measurements, we noticed a lot of variation.  For example, if the magnet is stuck to a portion of the roof where an internal support structure lies, you can see greater forces than in an area where there isn’t a support.

Use some static analysis to calculate expected performance

Warning: Math Content.  You can skip this section about the theory and jump straight to our testing.
Theoretical force on our 2 sq. ft. sign at various windspeeds
This section explains how to analyze the two failure modes.  It simplifies the problem by looking at them as completely separate situations, which isn’t technically correct.  It also ignores a number of other important factors you should be thinking about which will be mentioned later.
What is the force on the sign from the wind?
The force from the wind on a given sign will depend on the actual wind speed, the shape of the sign, the aerodynamics of the car, etc.  To get a rough estimate, we simplify the problem and use a formula for drag force on a flat plate:
Where = density of air (1.2 kg/m3), v = the airspeed (m/s), = the drag coefficient of 1.28, and A = the area of the flat plate (m2).  Using these units gives the force in Newtons; multiply by 0.225 to get pounds of force.
For the 2’ x 1’ sign in this example, the graph at right shows the theoretical force as a function of the wind-speed.  Note that the force goes up as the square of the velocity: A sign traveling at 60mph feels 4 times the force of a sign traveling at 30 mph.  That's the difference between 6 lb and 24 lb!
We built a sign that uses four magnets, separated by 1 foot fore-and-aft on the vehicle.  This long magnet-to-magnet distance helps resist the tendency of the sign to rotate backwards in the wind.
For details, see this PDF of hand calculations, including numbers for a few sample magnets.  Note that all of these calculations ignore many important, real-world problems, including:
  • How the combination of these failure modes affect one another
  • There is NO factor of safety included, which real applications should use
  • It ignores any specification of what the expected maximum wind speed should be, including wind gusts, swirls or vortices from other vehicles, etc.
  • It ignores any impact of bumps in the road or vibration induced loads
  • It ignores any treatment of lateral wind forces, from the side of the vehicle

Let’s test it on an actual car

We constructed a 2’ x 1’ sign out of wood.  We attached four MM-A-42 magnets with MM-RC-42 covers, spaced 12” apart fore-and-aft.  According to the theoretical calculations above, we might predict that this setup to fail by sliding at a wind force of 33 lb, at about 71 mph.
Before driving anywhere, we can test it by measuring the push force required to move the sign on the vehicle.  When we initially placed the sign on our vehicle, we measured a push force of 37 lb, a little more than predicted.
After we drove around for a while, we tested the push force again and recorded 55 lb.  We suspect this greater force might have been related to better friction from the rubber covers after they were warmed in the sun.
Finally, the best test is to drive the vehicle at speed.  The video below shows our testing up to 70 mph, with no movement of the sign.  We used some blue safety ropes to secure it to a roof rack for our testing, which you'll see flapping in the breeze.  This was a simple way to make the test safer and avoid damaging our car.

We also tested a few other magnets, including plastic coated magnets like our BY0X08DCSPC-BLK.  While this is a great, strong, waterproof magnet, there’s less friction between the surfaces.  This gave us a sliding failure, as shown in this video.

Analysis of Results

The limited testing we conducted validates this way of analyzing magnetic signs.  It’s a rough model, with lots of variation to be expected in the real world.
We recommend using stronger magnets than the MM-A-42 magnets used in our example.  The exact number and size of magnets you use depends on the size of your sign and the expected operating conditions (wind speed).
We’ve heard a number success stories using MM-A-48 or MM-A-60 sized magnets.  In each case, a long “fore-aft” distance between magnets was used to overcome the tendency of the sign to rotate off the vehicle.

Also consider rubber coated magnets

Another good solution might be our rubber coated magnets.  If the bottom of your sign is made of steel, you could simply place the magnet between the steel bottom of the sign and the roof of the vehicle.
Here are some measured experimental values for rubber coated magnets we tested on the roof of our vehicle:
P/N Listed Pull Force (lb) Pull Force, lifting straight up, off the roof of car (lb) Shear Force, pushing magnet sideways/horizontally on roof of car (lb)
DC6BR-N52 15.73 6.8 7.2
DX08BR-N52 32.6 9.6 6.8
BX084BR-N52 12.28 7.2 5.4
BX0X06BR-N52 30.82 9.4 7
BY0X08BR-N52 63.02 15.2 16
RX054BR-N52 16.37 7 5.4

Conclusions and advice for real-world applications

Use a big factor of safety.  Use magnets that are much stronger than the barest minimum necessary to hold the sign.  If you were driving behind a magnetic sign in a brand new car, how secure would you want it to be?
Use strategies to increase friction, such as our mounting magnets with rubber covers.  Or, consider including some high-friction surface in your own design.
Consider the actual speed you expect to drive with a sign.  A sign for a town parade at 25 mph can successfully use much smaller magnets than one that might speed down the highway at 85 mph into a 35 mph headwind!
Please be careful!  Test your sign with some safety mechanism in place, like the ropes we used.  Test away from traffic or other vehicles.

Neodymium Applications: - Magnetic Bottle Opener

Magnetic Bottle Opener                  

Magnets & Beer: What could go wrong?

Quite a few of our customers have asked us how magnets can be used to catch falling bottle-caps under a bottle opener.  We figured it was about time to try this out for ourselves.
While we originally thought this might be a little bit of a magnet gimmick, the end result turns out to be quite fun, and maybe even a little useful.

The Basic Setup

To open the bottle, a regular, wall-mounted bottle opener is used.  There are a number of these products available.  Some are made of bent sheet-metal or stainless.  We like the tough, cast products.  We found a few called "Starr X” openers that seemed like the classic openers we were looking for.
The basic idea is to mount the opener to a wall or other vertical surface, and then have a strong magnet underneath it to catch the falling caps.  This lets you open the bottle one-handed and not worry about catching the cap.  Plus, it’s fun to play with!
A typical setup places the strong magnet behind some surface so that the magnet is hidden.  While we constructed ours from wood, we’ve also seen solutions that use non-magnetic stainless steel or other non-magnetic materials.

What size magnet should be used?

The right magnet depends on a number of factors.  How strong should it be?  Does it need to hold just a few caps, or many?  Larger magnets obviously will hold more caps, though super strong magnets might make it difficult to remove all the caps by hand!  We figured a good goal is 24 bottle caps held by the magnet.
Also important is the distance between the magnet and the bottle caps.  This distance should be kept as small as possible to maximize the strength.  It is probably not a good idea to try this with ¼” or 1/2” thick surfaces.
We discussed the importance of keeping this non-magnetic layer thin back when we made a Magnetic Knife Holder.

Initial Testing

For a quick and dirty test, we figured we would try some of our Plastic Coated Magnets beneath an opener.  For an opener already mounted to a garage workbench, this might be a great, non-nonsense solution.
We tested each of these magnets underneath an opener, and counted how many caps it could hold:
Magnet Number of Caps
RX034DCSPC-BLK 1” diameter ring magnet 10
RX436DCSPC-BLK 1-1/4” diameter ring magnet 22-24
BX8C6DCSPC-BLK 1-1/2” x ¾” x 3/8” thick block 18-24
BY0X08DCSPC-BLK 2” x 1” x ½” thick block 24+ (35-40)


Testing with Magnets Behind a Thin Layer of Wood

We prototyped this by taping magnets behind a thin sheet of wood.  The wood was 0.065” thick, just over 1/16”.  We would not recommend using anything much thicker than this.
Magnet Number of Caps
D82 ½” diameter x 1/8” thick disc 1 too weak
D84 ½” diameter x ¼” thick disc 2-4 too weak
DC4 ¾” diameter x ¼” thick disc 10
DC6 ¾” diameter x 3/8” thick disc 11
DX08 1” diameter x ½” thick disc 24+ (30)
DX48 1-1/4” diameter x ½” thick disc 24+
DX88 1-1/2” diameter x ½” thick disc 24+ (40) too strong
BX8C8 1-1/2” x 3/4” x ½” thick block 24+
BY0X04 2” x 1” x ¼” thick block 24+ (30-40), one of our favorites
BY0X08 2” x 1” x ½” thick block 24+ (48), strong!
Series of four BX084 1” x ½” x ¼” thick blocks,
arranged with alternating polarity
Only 4-6. Not recommended.
If you are mesmerized by falling bottle caps snapping to a magnet, here is a really long video (8:51) showing a bunch of our testing.  It's a little repetitive, but by trying a number of different magnet sizes we were able to find the results we wanted.

Our finished solution

Rear and front views of two magnetic bottle openers.
We made a nice solution on the left using a strong, BY0X08, 2” x 1” x ½” thick magnet.  The strength of this magnet alone is enough to hold it in place on a refrigerator door.  We did use two small pieces of grippy tape stuck to the back of the wood (not double-sided), which increased the friction enough to prevent it from sliding around.
The opener on the right used two DX08 magnets, both with the same pole facing outward.  It also used four RC22CS-N magnets at the corners for a secure hold to the fridge door.  This is really strong, even a little difficult to remove from the door!
While the opener made with the darker wood uses the larger BY0X08 magnet, we really like the results even using smaller BY0X04 magnets.  Cleaning off the caps one time per case of drinks seems reasonable to us.
Here's a video of these openers in action.  Cheers!






   

iPhone Magnetic Measurements

iPhone Magnetic Measurements

Modern smartphones have internal magnetic sensors that can detect magnetic fields.  Learn more about how the output of these sensors can be useful in finding north, identifying the direction of the earths’ magnetic field, identifying poles of magnets and checking compliance with air shipment regulations. Neodymium Magnets

Detect Earth’s Magnetic Field

In our earlier article, The Earth is a Magnet, we described the earth’s magnetic field.  As most of us know, we can measure the direction of this field with a compass to figure out which way is north.  Most smartphones come preloaded with a compass application that does exactly that.
While most folks aren’t using this compass to figure out which way to go, they are using magnetic information indirectly.  When using an iPhone for directions, the phone considers not only the GPS sensor data, but also the magnetometer and accelerometers.  That’s part of how it can tell which direction you are pointed in.
The magnetic field sensed by the internal compass is not actually pointing to the north pole.  In fact, unless you live near the equator, it is probably pointing mostly down into the ground!
Here at K&J Magnetics in Pennsylvania, USA, the magnetic field points north, but also in a downward direction.  It’s angled about 67 degrees down!  That means it’s pointing down much more than it is pointing north.
There are a few applications that work well to detect the earth’s 3-dimensional magnetic field.  We demonstrate a few in the video below.

What is the strength and direction of the magnetic field where I live?

Intensity

Declination
Inclination
Curious about the strength and direction of the magnetic field near you?  Consider the 3 globes at right.
  1. Intensity is the overall strength of the magnetic field.
  2. Declination is how far off from true north you would expect a compass to point, where true north points straight to the earth’s north pole (the top of the globe, where it rotates).
  3. Inclination is how much the field direction is pointing up (into the sky) or down (into the ground).  Up is denoted as positive numbers, while down is negative.
For a better view of these maps, with spinning globes and more explanation of these terms, check out our page dedicated to Earth's Magnetic Field.

Detect a Magnet’s Magnetic Field

You can also use the same apps to measure the magnetic field near a neodymium magnet.  You can’t measure very strong magnetic fields very close to the phone – the sensor isn’t able to measure fields that strong.  Plus, you want to be careful not to get too close to the phone, or it could magnetize parts in it and/or mess up the compass calibration.

Identify a Magnet’s Poles

These applications can also help identify the poles of your magnet.  Below, we demonstrate how to use a few of these apps to identify the poles on an iPhone 5.
Don’t get a magnet too close to the phone, or it can temporarily mess up the calibration of the compass.

Estimate if a shipment meets air shipment requirements

In our article about Shipping Magnets, we describe the air shipment regulations pertaining to shipping magnets via air.  We also described a few ways of how to estimate it, though the surest way is to actually measure it with a special, very sensitive magnetic instrument.  Even though the sensors inside a smartphone are not sensitive enough to measure this directly, we can use them to estimate whether a package might meet these requirements.
If you can measure a magnetic field of 2 milligauss or more (0.002 gauss or 0.2 microTesla) at a distance of 7 feet from your package, the IATA (International Air Transport Association) says it must be labeled as a Dangerous Good.  We typically try to package magnets to be below this limit, avoiding the necessity of shipping as a Dangerous Good.  Can we measure this weak magnetic field with an iPhone?
Unfortunately, no.  The tiny measurement is beyond the resolution that the sensor is capable of.
However, if we place the smartphone at some closer distance, we might be able to infer the field strength farther away.  Considering how the field strength drops off near a disc magnet (formula found in Surface Fields 101), we figure that a magnet that has a 2 milligauss (0.2 μT) at 7 feet should have a strength of 20 milligauss (2 μT) at about 39 inches away.  This, the sensors can detect.
We are assuming that your package of magnets will have a magnetic field that drops off in this way.  It’s not perfectly accurate in every situation, but it’s a fair approximation.
In the video below, we measure the field strength of a few magnets in a few different configurations, both below and above the limit.  The output of the iPhone at 39 inches away, and an air shipment milligauss meter at 7 feet is shown.

From the theory and experimentation described above, we found that using the iPhone this way provides a decent estimate of whether or not a box of magnets would pass this air shipment requirement.  Measure the field strength without a magnet neaby, and then measure the change when you introduce the magnet at 39" away from the phone.  If your shipment shows less than a 2 μT change with the phone at 39” away from the box, it will probably be less than 2 milligauss at 7 feet away.
DISCLAIMER: Using a smartphone like this is only an estimate.  It is a great way to get a rough idea of how close you are, but might not be exact in all cases.  If in doubt, check with a calibrated air shipment milligauss meter.

CAUTION: Messing with powerful magnets near your iPhone can alter the calibration of the sensor!

In researching this article, we experimented with a number of powerful magnets near the phone.  While the compass can re-calibrate itself, it is possible to mess it up.  In our case, it seems that we might have slightly magnetized some component inside the phone.
While the compass still seems to work reasonably well, it doesn’t show the same overall field strength when we twist the phone around in different directions.  This relatively new iPhone did agree with itself before we starting experimenting.  There are a number of stainless steel shields inside an iPhone that might have been very slightly magnetized by the passing magnets.  Hopefully they will demagnetize over time.
Avoid getting powerful magnets too close to your smartphone, or risk messing with your own compass calibration.  Anything closer than a few inches is stronger than that sensor can measure anyway.